The perfect basic T-shirt for men: fit, fabric and weight explained

A basic T-shirt looks like the easiest piece of clothing there is. Yet this is exactly where a lot goes wrong: shirts that twist after three washes, a collar that starts to ripple, or a white tee you can see straight through. With a simple shirt, every detail shows.

I've worked in basics within fashion for more than 15 years and started LEBASQ to make T-shirts that last. In this guide I set out what really matters, whether you buy from us or somewhere else.

1. The fit: regular, long or oversized

Fit matters more than brand, fabric or price. An expensive shirt that fits badly looks cheap. Check four points:

• Shoulders: the shoulder seam should sit right at the end of your shoulder. If it hangs down your upper arm, the shirt is too big.
• Length: the hem falls just over your belt. If your stomach shows when you raise your arms, the shirt is too short.
• Sleeves: end around the middle of your upper arm and sit close without squeezing.
• Chest and body: you should be able to pinch a few centimetres of fabric. If it pulls across your chest or stomach, size up.

Which fit suits you?

• Regular fit is the classic cut: straight, not tight and not loose. Works for most builds.
• Long fit is longer in the body. Ideal for tall men, or if you wear your tee under a sweater or shirt without it riding up.
• Oversized is roomy and relaxed, with dropped shoulders. A deliberate style choice, not a size too big.

At LEBASQ you can choose long or regular fit in Miles's Crew and Davis' V-Neck. Steve's Crew and James' V-Neck are long fit, and Marlon's is oversized. All our shirts come in sizes M to 3XL.

2. Crew neck or V-neck?

The crew neck is the most versatile choice. It works on its own, under a blazer and under a sweater, where a V-neck can leave an odd triangle.

The V-neck is the best choice under a shirt worn open at the collar: it stays invisible, where a crew neck shows above the top button. Worn on its own, a V-neck looks slightly dressier. Pick a V that isn't too deep and it stays sharp.

Not sure? Start with crew necks in white, black and navy. If you often wear shirts, add a few white V-necks.

3. The fabric: cotton, organic cotton or Tencel

• Cotton is breathable, strong and easy to wash. The difference is in the fibre: longer fibres make a smoother, firmer shirt that pills less.
• Organic cotton is grown without synthetic fertilisers or chemical pesticides. Look for the GOTS certification: it checks the whole chain, from farming to processing. A good choice for something you wear against your skin all day.
• Tencel™ (lyocell) is a fibre made from wood. It feels smoother and cooler than cotton, breathes well and drapes rather than standing stiff. Great in warm weather and in a looser fit.

Our Steve's Crew and James' V-Neck 3-packs and the Baker Crew are made from GOTS-certified organic cotton. Ray's Crew blends Tencel™ with organic cotton, and Marlon's is 100% lyocell.

4. The weight: how heavy should a T-shirt be?

Fabric weight is measured in grams per square metre (gsm). As a rule of thumb:

• Light (under ±150 gsm): airy, but quickly turns see-through and loses its shape sooner.
• Midweight (±150–200 gsm): the most versatile range for an everyday tee, on its own or under something else.
• Heavy (200+ gsm): sturdy with structure, great worn on its own, but warmer and less suited under a shirt.

Why we make nothing under 180 gsm

Fabric weight is the easiest place to cut costs, which is why many cheap tees use thin fabric. It shows:

• See-through: especially in white, you can see through thin fabric.
• Loss of shape: thin fabric twists after a few washes, the side seams rotate and the collar starts to ripple.
• Poor drape: a thin shirt clings to your body and shows every edge, where a firmer fabric falls cleanly.
• Shorter life: thin fabric pills and wears out faster, so you end up buying again sooner.

That's why we don't make shirts under 180 gsm. For us, that's the point where a tee is opaque and holds its shape, but is still thin enough to wear under a shirt or sweater. Miles's Crew, Davis' V-Neck, Steve's Crew and James' V-Neck are all 180 gsm. The Baker Crew is 200 gsm GOTS organic cotton: a little sturdier, made to be worn on its own.

Buying elsewhere? Check the gsm. If it isn't listed, hold a white shirt up to the light.

5. Colours: start with three

A strong basics wardrobe starts with white, black and navy. With those you can combine almost anything. Navy is the underrated one: softer than black, sharper than grey.

After that, add off-white (warmer than bright white and great with earthy tones) and muted colours such as sage green or shades of blue. The Baker Crew comes in colours like these.

6. Washing and care: make your tee last for years

• Wash at 30°C, inside out. That protects colour and fabric.
• Wash whites separately so they don't turn grey.
• Don't use too much detergent. Residue makes shirts stiff and dull.
• Ideally air-dry your shirts. The dryer shrinks cotton and makes the collar go limp sooner.
• Yellow underarm stains are often caused by aluminium-based deodorant combined with sweat. Let your deodorant dry before putting on your shirt.

7. Single shirts or a 3-pack?

You wear basics often, so it pays to buy them in sets. You always have a clean shirt ready, and they wear evenly. A LEBASQ 3-pack starts at €34.95, and any two 3-packs together cost €59.95. That works out at about €10 per shirt, for a shirt that lasts for years.

Frequently asked questions

How do I know if a T-shirt fits well?

The shoulder seam sits on your shoulder bone, the hem falls just over your belt and you can pinch a few centimetres of fabric at your chest. If the fabric pulls or the shoulders hang down your arm, the size isn't right.

Which T-shirt should I wear under a shirt?

A V-neck, so it stays invisible when you leave the top button open. Choose a long fit so the tee stays tucked in.

How thick should a good T-shirt be?

For an everyday tee, 180 to 200 gsm is a good choice: opaque and it holds its shape. Under 150 gsm a shirt quickly becomes see-through, especially in white.

Does a cotton T-shirt shrink?

Cotton can shrink a little, especially at high temperatures and in the dryer. Wash at 30°C and air-dry, and the shirt keeps its size.

What's the difference between regular fit and long fit?

Long fit is longer in the body than regular fit. Handy if you're tall or wear your tee under a sweater or shirt.

Want to find the right shirt for you? Browse our T-shirts or check the size chart on each product page.